Lay Out a Pattern on A Border Print

Fold fabric lengthwise, with the selvedges together. You may want to fold your fabric wrong sides together to make it easier to see the border print as you work.

Start with the largest pieces first. In the example, the largest pieces are the skirt front and back. As you place each piece, make sure to line up the border from piece to piece.

For example, on the skirt front and back, make sure the border matches across the side seams. If you place the pattern too high on one side and too low on the other, the seams will look sloppy. The example, left, shows a poorly matched side seam compared to the well-matched side seam, right. Measure up from the selvedge to ensure the seams will match.

Use the notches on the bodice pattern pieces to line up the pattern along the print. If there are no notches, line up the underarm seams.

Tips + Notes

1. You may have to change the grain line when working with border printed fabrics in order to get the print where you want it. It’s OK to rotate the grain line 90°, but avoid changing it completely.
2. It’s not necessary to match the actual print across the seams, but you may want to for large prints, stripes along the border or prints with distinct outlines. (See page link for more on matching prints.)
3. Buy extra fabric when working with a border print so you have room to work with the print and create your own cutting layout instead of following the pattern’s layout. Do a trial layout before cutting.
4. If you are placing the border print along the hemline, make sure the garment is the correct length, as hemming it shorter once the garment is sewn may cut off part of the border.
5. To cut fabrics with finished borders, such as scalloped-edge lace, trim off the hem allowance and place the new hemline along the finished edge of the fabric.