Bias tape is a continuous strip of fabric that’s cut on the bias. You can buy prepackaged bias tape made from a cotton-polyester blend in a variety of solid colors. It’s usually preshrunk so it can be used right away. You can make bias tape out of any flat fabric from printed cotton to polyester satin. The easiest fabrics to make bias tape from are tightly woven fabrics that press well, such as 100 percent cotton and cotton-polyester blends. Bias tape comes in two varieties: single-fold and double-fold. Single-fold bias tape has the edges pressed in toward center, and double-fold bias tape is single-fold tape that’s been pressed in half.

Single-fold and double-fold bias tape
 
Bias tape inside Robson Coat
 
When do you use it?
Bias tape is great for binding the edges of fabric, as the bias curves nicely around shaped edges without puckering. Bias tape is used for seam finishes such as bound seams and seams with a Hong Kong finish. Bias tape can also be used for finishing the edges of hems or finishing inner edges of facings. You can even use bias tape instead of facings to finish necklines and armholes. Read the section on binding to learn how to apply it to edges and how to finish garment openings. Bias tape has a bit of stretch, so you don’t want to use it as a stabilizer like stay tape. Bias tape is also used to make covered piping.
 
Tips + Notes
  1. Choose small prints rather than large prints for making bias tape, as large prints won’t show up well on the narrow tape.
  2. Stripes, plaid and gingham cut on the bias make neat bias tape!
  3. When seaming the bias strips, save the shortest strips for the end and sew them one after another. That way you can start using the section with the least number of seams and save the part with several joins until the end of your project. Or cut from the end with many seams when you are using only small sections of tape.
  4. You can turn double-fold bias tape into single-fold by pressing it open. Or turn single-fold into double-fold by pressing it in half.
  5. Save the cardboard inserts from purchased bias tape to store your own tape. Wind the bias tape around the cardboard and secure the end with a straight pin or tuck it into the wound tape.

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